It was the first time during our road trip that we had to make sure we got up at a certain time - we were doing the Gordon River Cruise. Lady Jane Franklin II leaves at 8.30 and waits for no man, so I guess it was fortunate that we went to bed at nine the night before. We boarded the ship and went up to the 'Captain's Premier Upper Deck', which was worth every single cent of the extra 70 dollars we had to pay.
There was a big debate between the Cheapsake Ashley and Princess Ashley on the Cruise option back in October 2005. Cheapsake Ashley thought a cruise is just a cruise and there is no difference between where you sit, and although the Upper Deck comes with lunch and beverage, they could be just things like crappy sandwiches and stuff. Princess Ashley thought she deserves the best and it would be cool to have good leather recliner chairs for the whole 5 and half hours, and there would no screaming kids running around and then threw up due to any form sea sickness. At the end the princess won - the bottom line is that I would pay anything to avoid having kids screaming and throwing up next to me (and this came from first hand experience in the Whitsundays), even if that means extra 70 dollars.
As soon as we were shown to our seats (with our own floor to ceiling glass windows that auto-washes themselves every hour - amazing), there was tea and coffee and biscuits offered. I am sorry but this means a lot to me. I dont think I am a pig but good food truly makes my travel experience that much better. Lady Jane Franklin II now slowly left Strahan and our first stop was Hell's Gate, the narrow opening of Macquarie Harbour, which claimed many ships in the past. It was also named by the early convicts who had to cope with the tough condition on Sarah Island.
I didnt find Hell's Gate particularly special, probably because I only stayed on the open deck for 5 seconds, but it was too cold and I just wanted to quickly come back into the cabin and ate biscuits. Eric also started his first beer (included in the package). The captain did a big U turn and we were on our way to the 'real' Gordon River.
By the time we finished our fruit plates we were next to a few very interesting looking salmon farms, they were like huge baskets in the ocean and there were fisherman feeding the salmons and trouts. I now have realised that the fresh Tasmanian Salmon that cost me $39 per kg in Sydney grew up on pellets!!! What a rip-off!!!!
They started serving cheese platter as the captain explained to us why the water appeared to look dark brown. Tanin, which can also be found in red wine, was released into the water because of the particular type of weeds that grows in the Gordon River area. We could also see traces of foams and bubbles on the surface of the ocean where Lady Jane Franklin have sailed by as tanin is also a natural detergent. We got to taste the water on the boat from a big jar - and it taste just like water!!!
The ship now smoothly went into the narrow river path and it was amazing. All the trees, different types of pines and rainforest kind of plants, lived together. I am ashamed to admit, apart from the trees, I couldnt remember much cos I dozed off in my leather recliner... I guess it was good timing that the ship soon moored to the Heritage Landing so I could stretch my legs and have a walk in the rainforest, before I slept through the rest of the cruise.
We went into the rainforest and did an one hour walk. I really didnt expect to see the ferns and things like that in the West Coast, provided the climate is pretty cold and all that. Apparently the Tasmania Wilderness (Part of the World Heritage Area) has one of the very few cold weather rainforests in the world. We also walk past a tiger snake sun-bathing on a tree branch (which I found out after the trip, is pretty much the most deadly snake in Australia - so I dont know why I was so excited when I saw it - I should have been running for my life).
As if on cue, lunch was ready the minute we got back onto the ship. It was fantasic, all-you-can-eat buffet with unlimited smoked salmon and exotic dish like wallaby vindaloo. I love the wallabies and enjoyed all the patting I did in the Tasmanian Devil Park but to be fair, they were yummy!!! They taste like beef but more tender and juicy (probably from all those jumping around's) and I felt quite guilty as I helped myself to the second serve.
The last stop of the cruise was Sarah Island, which is, in a way, a mini-Port Arthur, but only rougher. The convicts build ships and in fact Sarah Island was once the biggest shipyard in Australia, producing almost 100 ships, including one that was stolen by a few very smart convicts, who salied the ship to Chile and lived there as free men for quite a few years before they were reported and sent back to Hobart - I must say, that was pretty impressive. Even if I had the ability to steal a ship that big, I wouldnt know how to sail it to South America would I? Sarah Island was a sad place to me, and it doesnt give you that sense of tranquility Port Arthur provides, I think perhaps because of the bullet winds and the un-forgiving weather. Those convicts roughed it there, they really did.
I forgot about the convicts as soon as we got back onto Lady Jane Franklin II. Yes you have guessed why - there was more food! Obviously we all needed a bit of dessert after the history lessons. High quality chocolate mouse and mango cheese cakes were served and that really completed the wonderfual experience we had on the Gordon River Cruise and honestly, it was not just the food that made it so wonderful.
On our way back to our apartment we found this place (Corner of Harvey St and Jones St) where they sell live crayfish from home and it is much cheaper than getting them from the local seafood shop ($40 per kg) so we bought two pretty big ones for dinner. It tasted so much better freshly cooked straight from the water (they cook it for you at the spot). We have finally realised all our dreams for Tassie...
I suppose it is now time to give out the AAR stars. I think Wheelhouse Apartments is pretty amazing with the breathe taking views and innovative designs. But then, to be fair, I think it is a tad hopeless that all the water from the whole hot water cylinder was not enough to fill up the spa and Yuting had to lie flat in the 30cm high water like a dead salmon also as a result Eric had to wait for another 3 hours before he can have a hot shower. Breakfast was provided but there was no egg or salt or pepper. I dont want to sound like a diva but it cost $410 per night and I do expect more than toast and jam...
Hence I am giving it 3 stars for Uniqueness, staff friendliness and the uber-cool design of the house which let us take in what Strahan is all about, 24-7, and from every angle. I couldnt believe how fast time has flied and we were heading towards our last destination of the trip the next day... /_\
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